Agreed. Wesnoth's codebase is pretty straightforward, "dumb" C++ (and I mean that as a compliment--smart C++ can get you in trouble really easily). I think most of the bits of it I've wandered through are pretty good examples of how to write C++ for games without killing yourself.
It's shocking how much a wannabe game dev that looks like Philip Seymour Hoffman's younger sister can learn about enterprise development too, when they've never actually worked a day in their life at a typical enterprise shop.