That said, looking at recent releases, there are nice things from both, and if I wasn’t running GHES, I’d be stuck to choose between the two
https://about.gitea.com/
This is forgejo's homepage:
https://forgejo.org/
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The homepages should tell you which is more focused on the self-hosted open source use case.
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They both also have cloud options, one focussing more on large scale and features I don’t care about, the other others some sort of hosted instance that’s private.
Sorry, doesn’t help me
One is supported by a for-profit org, while the other by a non-profit org.
That said, looking at recent releases, there are nice things from both, and if I wasn’t running GHES, I’d be stuck to choose between the two