To try and remove myself from Google as much as possible I've been trying Apple Maps again after previous bad experiences, and much prefer it now. The only exception is place information, including opening hours etc, for which Google is much better. I'm pretty sure the difference is to do with incentives, where Apple isn't trying to sell ads in Maps. That seems to have lead to things in Google Maps like location pins outcompeting basic information like road names, which doesn't happen in Apple Maps. There's clearly a trade-off there, that I think Google has started to get very wrong.

For what it's worth I also don't like the new colours. I guess people will get used to it after a while, but I question the wisdom of a change like that in a situation where colours have meaning - there should be a very good reason for that kind of change, and I haven't seen anything to back that up. If anything the opposite where, for example, route information is harder to see in dark mode.