I think it's both. Some brands are marketing crappy disposable clothes (like H&M), other more conservative brands like Adidas for instance, are marketing some longer lasting clothing that one could use for more than one season. Actually the H&M Group has a more "exclusive" brand called COS which is about the same quality as Zara only more expensive - similar average quality synthetic materials but arguably better designs. The funny thing is that under a single company one could have it both ways. Look at Inditex, they're the best example. They include the Pull & Bear, Zara and Massimo Dutti brands under one umbrella company. While one markets disposables, the other markets upscale clothing that can last several seasons and there's also the in-between brand that markets clothes that last aproximately for one season. I guess there are buyers for all of these, depending on age/gender/income demographic.