It may not be quite where you want it yet, but take a look at https://github.com/usefathom/fathom. In particular you may be interested in issue https://github.com/usefathom/fathom/issues/40 where cookies are discussed.

The oldschool way of doing this is programs like awstats that parse the web server logs, which can do all the things you're talking about and is in Debian/Ubuntu repos. I don't know if there's a fancier similar tool that people use these days, but AWStats gets the job done.

I wouldn't say they record zero PII but they don't record much additional PII over what your logs already use.