Not only that, but a virtually unbounded population space to test. Count every single organism alive today.

Our top supercomputers can process tens of petaflops. That seems to easily dwarf these biological time scales you mention. There appears to be some magic in evolution that surpasses mere trial limitations.

I'd like to double down and say the top supercomputers today couldn't, in reasonable time, simulate a single generation of the genetic variation in your gut flora alone.

Sure, but that means the magic does not lie in evolution, but in the extreme amounts of information in biological organisms. Evolution is supposed to be able to generate incredibly complex organisms from very simple beginnings, all within a number of trials that can be simulated on today's desktop. Insofar as we displace the problem from evolution to the organism or environment we are saying there is nothing special about evolution. In which case it begs the question what is so special about evolution in the first place?

Are these numbers really outside the range of modern computers?

There's a distinct gap between "most powerful supercomputers available" and "compute clusters typically used for this sort of problem."

There are teraflop processors for the desktop now. Our standard 60 GFlop processors will take less than a minute to do a trillion operations. I don't see the computational bottleneck you refer to.

At least from a viewpoint of number of trials, we can easily replicate the number of trials evolution has to work with using an everyday desktop. Why don't we see comparable evolution in the desktop? There is some sort of magic to evolution we have not yet fathomed.